
Years ago in New York, my roommates and I discovered an Italian restaurant with no name. It was on 8th Street between Avenues A and B, and the only way we could identify it was by the huge wooden tomato hanging outside as their sign. But it wasn't called "
Il Grande Pomodoro" or "Ristorante Italiano." It had no name at all. They opened before choosing a name and subsequently closed not too long thereafter.
They did, however, provide a lasting food legacy for me. Their menu was small and simple and while they eventually went through a host of names before closing ignominiously, the menu never changed. On the left-hand side of the menu were their
crostini, hunks of crusty peasant loaf spread with artichoke hearts or olive tapenade that arrived on wooden boards. On the right side were their pastas, and these were always al dente, seasoned gloriously, and with sauces that went beyond the cliche carbonaras and bologneses, yet when I tasted these combinations, I wondered why they weren't part of the standards.
The sauce I returned to time and again was a spicy eggplant-tomato sauce with sausages and mozzarella, which is now a part of my winter-time fare.
Here is how I make pasta con salsa di pomodori piccante con melanzana, mozzarella e le salsiccie:
Slice the eggplant into rounds and salt about an hour before dinner.

Pre-heat a saucepan with olive oil, and slice the eggplant rounds into 1 inch pieces.
Saute the eggplant until the pieces begin to go translucent, about 5-10 minutes (eggplant is a tough one, because if you undercook it, you will end up with that squeaky raw vegetable feel in your sauce, and if you overcook them, they fall apart completely).

Add a 35-ounce can of tomatoes in puree and half of a sliced hot pepper. In this case, I used a green
jalapeno and as I like heat, I do not deseed them. The pepper imparts a delicious kick to the heavy tomato base. If the sauce seems like it is too hot at this stage, though, the mozzarella at the end will calm it down a bit.

Simmer the sauce until the eggplant becomes really tender, another 10-15 minutes.
Season with salt, pepper, and red paper flakes (optional - told you I like heat!) to your taste. Mix in slices of fresh mozzarella.
In the meantime, cook the sausages of your choice in a separate skillet (I have talked about my love of Johnsonville Brats
before). Alternately, you can add salami or pepperoni to the sauce until just heated through.
I served it with one of my favorite new pasta shapes -
cellentani. In lieu of fresh mozzarella, I added already-grated Kraft cheddar. As you can see from the flecks in my sauce above, this sadly did not melt into a gooey cheesy mess as planned. In an ideal world, I would make mozzarella from my own buffalo and have the little cheeses in reserve, but for the moment, we do not have room for a buffalo.
I digress.
Buon appetito.